AENÁLIA — The Gesture of Memory

There is a striking, almost eloquent beauty in AENÁLIA’s jewelry, for which Katerina Kritikou, its founder, becomes the voice, the expression, the gesture. Because we all carry within us multiple roots - geographical, emotional, cultural - these creations awaken something deeply intimate. They speak to us, they move us profoundly. At Paris/Athens Magazine, they touched us deeply.

Through the act of transmission and the evocative power of form, AENÁLIA does more than revive neo-Hellenic jewelry – it breathes new life into it, offering a contemporary voice. In other words, it becomes the spokesperson of a living memory. From her workshop in Athens, Katerina Kritikou — founder of AENÁLIA and art historian trained at the Sorbonne — gives free rein to a creativity nourished by two capitals: Paris and Athens. Her mission? To resurrect a forgotten chapter of Greek heritage: neo-Hellenic jewelry. Her creations, handcrafted with patience and precision, whisper stories of women, of transmission, of territory. They connect the past to the present.

To the left, Katerina Kritikou. Photo Dora Dimitriou. To the right, Roses Costes – Dani Roses, Paris, personal photo

A JOURNEY BETWEEN TWO CITIES

P/A Magazine. When, how, and why did you decide to study in Paris?
Katerina Kritikou. While studying communication at the University of Athens, I dreamed of immersing myself in the world of art. I was fascinated by European art of the 19^th and 20^th centuries, and Paris – a city I had always wanted to live in – was its beating heart. This dream became reality in 2009 when I was admitted to the Sorbonne, where I spent five extraordinary years. My life in Paris deeply influenced my worldview, my approach to aesthetics, and history.

To the left, Chanel exhibition, Paris. To the right, Matisse exhibition, Paris. Personal photos

How did it influence and shape your perspective on traditional jewelry?
It was during my studies in Paris that I began to appreciate antique objects and let myself be seduced by the beauty of past eras. It was also in the streets of Paris that I started wearing the original neo-Hellenic jewelry my grandmother had given me. People from all over the world asked me where they came from. That’s when the idea to bring them back to life took root.

To the left, Alaïa exhibition, Paris. To the right Le Grand Palais, Paris. Personal photos

What impressions, influences, or transformations did the city leave on you?
I don’t think Paris changed me, but it nourished me in many ways. Surrounded by so much beauty, I felt the need to absorb everything the city had to offer. I spent my days in libraries, museums, galleries, or simply wandering for hours. What I learned to appreciate most was discreet elegance.

Moodboards AENÁLIA

Did Paris awaken a desire for creation in you?
Paris undeniably awakened my creativity through constant aesthetic stimulation. It allowed me to look with fresh eyes at the objects passed down in my family. Gradually, these objects took the shape of treasures linked to my roots, my history, my country. But what use is a treasure if you cannot give it a purpose today? I wasn’t interested in simply exhibiting original neo-Hellenic jewelry. I could do much more: save them from oblivion by redefining them with contemporary elegance.

AENÁLIA – earring Kassiopi

AENÁLIA: REINVENTING TRADITION

What does the name AENÁLIA mean?
AENÁLIA comes from the Greek word aenaos, which means eternal, perpetual. Beyond its musicality and ease of pronunciation, this name reflects the timeless style of the neo-Hellenic tradition.

How do you perceive neo-Hellenic jewelry of the past? And how can it be embraced today?
First, it is essential to define what neo-Hellenic jewelry is: it spans from the 17^th to the late 19^th century, covers mainland Greece as well as its islands, and blends influences from Western Europe and the Islamic world. It was an integral part of traditional Greek costume. Inspired by this rich heritage and the tradition of post-Byzantine goldsmithing, every AENÁLIA piece is designed with deep respect for ancient techniques. It is the first brand dedicated to the contemporary revival of this jewelry. Its identity is based on uniqueness, timelessness, and wearability, while considering the wearer as a bearer of a story rooted in historical research. Wearing an AENÁLIA piece means bringing Greek aesthetics to life wherever you are.

To the left, necklace Trikeri. To the right, earrings Dione. Photos Yannis Bournias

Folklore is often seen as rigid or outdated. How do you reinterpret it by breathing freedom and modernity into it?
I firmly believe in adaptability and continuity, both in art and in life. My goal is to revive a little-known part of Greek jewelry history while respecting the age-old principles of goldsmithing. But it is equally important to free it from its folkloric constraints. After a phase of research comes design: selecting a detail from an old piece of jewelry, transforming it to make it wearable, adding a personal touch. AENÁLIA fills a gap by offering a style of jewelry still largely unknown to the general public. To me, that is what it means to bring neo-Hellenism back to life.

To the left, earrings Ormylia. To the right, earrings Kallisti. Photos Yannis Bournias

To the left, earrings and rings Feres and bracelet Arisvi. To the right, rings Vaya. Photos Yannis Bournias

CRAFTSMANSHIP AND EXPERTISE

Craftsmanship is at the heart of your creations. Do you work with specific workshops in Greece?
I collaborate exclusively with artisans from Ioannina, a beautiful and historic city in northwestern Greece, where goldsmithing is a major form of local art. The reputation of Ioannina’s goldsmiths has crossed borders for centuries. Their techniques have been passed down since the Byzantine era. Even today, Ioannina remains closely linked to silverwork.

AENÁLIA – artisans from Ioannina. Personal photos

Have you had access to archives or museum collections that inspired you?
Historical research is fundamental to creating my collections. I rely on books, articles, exhibition catalogs, as well as visits to museums and private collections. I often travel throughout Greece to deepen my research. My favorite museum is the Ioannina Goldsmithing Museum, located in the city’s castle, as well as the Victoria Karelias Collection in Kalamata. In Athens, I frequently visit the Benaki Museum, which holds the largest collection of neo-Hellenic jewelry, as well as the National Historical Museum and the Aggeliki Chatzimichali Museum of Folk Art. Aggeliki Chatzimichali is a role model for me: the first Greek folklorist, she traveled the country in the early 20^th century documenting folk arts. Her extensive bibliography is my Bible. A woman of such strength and clarity of vision will never cease to inspire me.

A JEWEL AS LIVING MEMORY

Is there a neo-Hellenic jewel that holds special meaning for you?
Each piece carries a story full of symbols. The earrings and ring called Feres are very dear to me. They are inspired by the “engagements,” bracelets worn in Thrace and the Balkans from marriage until the birth of the first child. These bracelets were believed to promote fertility. It is also the very first neo-Hellenic jewel my grandmother gave me. She was part of the local circle of the Lyceum Club of Greek Women. Thanks to her, I was immersed in traditions from childhood. I owe my love for neo-Hellenic jewelry to her.

Among your own creations, is there one you feel particularly attached to?
I love them all. The moment I hold a new piece in my hands is always the most precious. Each AENÁLIA jewel carries a part of myself. But I feel especially connected to my very first creation, Zitsa, and the most recent one, Ioannina. Both belong to the Epirus collection. Zitsa is inspired by the Byzantine crown worn by brides in the village of Pogoni. Ioannina, very recent, features a flower with striking stamens embroidered on the belts of old costumes. The coral ornament is split in two to embrace the ears like twin petals.

To the left, earrings Ioannina. To the right, necklace Ivira. Photos Dimitris Lantzounis

The Secret Garden Locket pendant deeply touched us. More than a jewel, it opens an intimate world. What message would you like to discover there? Or, what words would you lock inside forever?
This pendant is a modern talisman rooted in neo-Hellenic tradition. It is inspired by cylindrical jewels sewn onto the backs of bridal costumes from Astypalea, meant to ward off evil by their sound. For me, it celebrates the magic of words. Mine, which I wear every day, contains a word of strength written by a loved one. If I were to write myself a message, it would be: “Go with the flow,” a constant reminder of my tendency to overthink and want to control everything.

Necklaces Secret Garden Locket. Photo Dimitris Lantzounis

LET’S TALK FASHION…

A jewel, however meaningful it is, is also an accessory. How do you wear yours?
I have a soft spot for earrings, which I wear with monochrome outfits: black in winter, white in summer. Since AENÁLIA is a brand of statement pieces, I prefer to wear them with simple outfits—no prints, ruffles, or ribbons. Their beauty shines best in simplicity. But I remain open to bold and unexpected pairings.

What’s your summer dress code?
Light dresses, midi skirts, linen shirts, flat sandals—in light tones.

And generally, how do you dress? Are you faithful to a style, a uniform?
I don’t like trends. I favor timeless clothing. And I almost never wear more than one piece of jewelry at a time.

Are there any designers—Greek or international—you particularly follow?
I support Greek designers: Mantility, Ergon Mykonos, Daphne Valente, Angelos Bratis, Callista, Ancient Kallos, Etoile Coral, Di Gaia… There are more and more promising Greek brands expanding internationally. Sadly, the Greek designer I admired most, Sophia Kokosalaki, is no longer with us. Her creations were masterpieces deeply rooted in Greece. On the international side: Giambattista Valli, Phoebe Philo, Nicolas Ghesquière, Anthony Vaccarello, Jonathan Anderson, Miuccia Prada, Daniel Roseberry. In high jewelry: Fernando Jorge, Repossi, Ana Khouri – my current obsessions.

And finally… where are you going this summer? And which jewelry will you take?
I plan to go to Samothrace, a preserved island in the northern Aegean Sea. I try to avoid overly touristy destinations and August vacations. I’ll bring the Oia and Vaya earrings (from the Aegean Islands collection) for my evening outfits, and the Kinira necklace and earrings for my more casual looks.

A big thank you to Katerina Kritikou for her time, trust, and enthusiasm. E-shop : AENÁLIA

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